Tiny Treasures: Dim Sum Go Go
I used to allow myself Chinese food only under certain circumstances: when I was terribly hung over or when it was Mr Chow or Shun Lee, but since that fateful day, when I got my first duck dumpling fix from Dim Sum Go Go, all other dim sum experiences ceased to exist for me. To say that I sunk my teeth into a duck dumpling is not entirely accurate, as the dumpling dough is so paper thin and tender as to be translucent, giving me a pale peek at the orange of the carrot slivers intertwined with the duck inside, and, so tender that teeth – while always nice to have – aren’t actually necessary to enjoy them. Equally delicate and subtle are the mushroom dumplings, the gossamer dough of which are mustard-color in hue, sweet and earthily fragrant within. The chive and shrimp dumplings, steamed and succulent are fluffy and fresh.
Sebastian literally cannot stop himself when it comes to the spring rolls: crispy and flaky on the outside, but meaty and juicy within, and perfect with their accompanying soy-vinegar sauce.
The sauces!! As soon as you secure your table three sauces are laid in front of you: a pale, clear vinegar sauce, an “X.O.” sauce, which I think of as fish bacon and is in fact tendrils of dried scallops and ham in spicy oil, and lastly a ginger scallion sauce, which is so refreshing and delicious that I cannot help but put a dollop of it on everything on the menu.
On a recent visit Owen ordered us the shredded duck with preserved ginger and fungus, over which we became unhinged! The incongruent texture of the sea fungus – which looks like pale noodles and has a resilient consistency without being tough – combined with the tender duck and preserved ginger infusion captivates the senses, it is completely strange and totally magical. The sautéed Chinese chives with Chinese celery and roasted walnuts are cooked to perfection, proved by its bright green hue and al dente mushroom slices. Poppy, my boyfriend’s four-year-old niece ate as many duck dumplings as she could get her fingers on and her two-year-old sister proclaimed simply about the spring rolls, “Delicious!”
Alas, Go Go is no no secret. One day in February we had an unusually long wait (45 minutes), but for a party of 7 at brunch time on a beautiful New York Sunday, that’s not really so shabby. At the table next to ours was French football legend Thierry Henri, and as we were getting up to leave I noticed fashion wunderkind Alexander Wang and his buddies ogling Sebastian’s outfit of plaid plus-fours and hunting jacket as they sat down at their table. Wang may be an aesthete, but the airport lounge décor didn’t seem to bother him; my guess is he’s been here before and knows that these tiny treasures are worth the wait. Dim Sum Go Go is anything but traditional dim sum, and with no MSG, the fresh, fork tender, hardly greasy concoctions are completely sublime.